{"id":106048,"date":"2025-05-14T21:12:21","date_gmt":"2025-05-15T01:12:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/editionap.ca\/?p=106048"},"modified":"2025-12-16T05:09:40","modified_gmt":"2025-12-16T04:09:40","slug":"alain-menard-and-his-love-for-all-things-cheese","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/refletnews.ca\/en\/affaires\/alain-menard-and-his-love-for-all-things-cheese\/","title":{"rendered":"Alain M\u00e9nard and his love for all things cheese"},"content":{"rendered":"

I\u2019m browsing the displays of specialty foods at Fromagerie des Trois Rapides (FTR) on County Road 17 in Hawkesbury waiting for owner Alain M\u00e9nard to transit from his other business, The Green Beaver, a few minutes away.<\/strong><\/p>\n

The well-established Green Beaver brand, which he started with his wife 23 years ago, sells personal care products such as aluminum-free deodorant, toothpaste and sunscreen found in health-food stores, grocery stores and at pharmacies.<\/p>\n

It’s a business model and a customer reach that M\u00e9nard would like to eventually replicate for FTR where the unique condiments, foie gras, chocolate, and spreads and preserves I survey are the foreground to the main event at the business, an \u201caffinage\u201d room where the cheeses quietly sit.<\/p>\n

Affinage is a key period of time during which cheeses mature and age \u2013 and thereby gain their distinctive flavours, aromas and textures.<\/p>\n

\u201cA lot of fresh cheese doesn\u2019t really taste like much. It\u2019s only after aging that it does,\u201d says M\u00e9nard.<\/p>\n

A leap toward his love of cheese<\/b><\/p>\n

I happen to consider cheese one of my personal care products: it\u2019s a regular purchase for me and satisfies both body and soul. The savoury morsel is what American literary critic Clifton Fadiman called \u201cmilk\u2019s leap toward immortality.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

Cheese is, in fact, \u201calive\u201d as it changes and evolves: making a high-quality soft, semi-soft or hard cheese requires controlling and shaping live microscopic organisms in their environment.<\/p>\n

M\u00e9nard is a subject-matter expert when it comes to microbes and uniquely suited to understanding how they play a role in cheese-making having graduated with a degree in microbiology from the Faculty of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences at McGill University.<\/p>\n

\u201cI took a lot of food microbiology courses because as an 18-year-old I guess I was interested in fermenting stuff,\u201d M\u00e9nard says with a smile. \u201cWhen you talk about food microbiology, it\u2019s when you use bacteria and yeast to make food. I learned the basics of making cheese.\u201d<\/p>\n

He started FTR in 2023 during the pandemic, a time that wasn\u2019t conducive to introducing new personal products to Green Beaver customers without being able to be face-to-face with them.<\/p>\n

When he couldn\u2019t visit clients, he took a leap toward his passion \u2013 and a dream \u2013 to one day start a small cheese shop.<\/p>\n

That leap made, he contacted a well-known fromag\u00e8re in the province: Margaret Peters-Morris of Glengarry Fine Cheese near Lancaster, Ont., about an hour\u2019s drive from Hawkesbury.<\/p>\n

Peters-Morris has been making cheese since the 1990s, and her company also specializes in providing technical support to artisanal cheesemakers and distributes supplies to help fromageries with their build out.<\/p>\n

M\u00e9nard approached her as he was setting up his space, and she consulted on the design. The affinage room, a fairly tight rectangle with large windows facing out onto the store, has a series of shelves on which might be perched up to 100 wheels of cheese each weighing between five and ten kilograms \u2013 some encased in black food-grade wax.<\/p>\n

The room is controlled for precise conditions of temperature and humidity to facilitate the cheese\u2019s ideal evolution and encourage the various microbes \u2013 yeasts, bacteria and fungi molds \u2013 that help spur milk into becoming cheese. Hard cheeses and soft cheeses require different aging conditions in terms of humidity and time.<\/p>\n

Like good wine, it starts with terroir
\n<\/b><\/p>\n

M\u00e9nard\u2019s cheese is made at Glengarry, and he says FTR strives to make something a little bit different, \u201csomething a little more traditional.\u201d The result is FTR organic cheese \u2013 starting with organic cow\u2019s milk, of course \u2013 and what he refers to as \u201cartisanal\u201d cheese that is made \u201cthe way they used to make cheese.\u201d<\/p>\n

Sourcing milk from both Jersey and Holstein cows \u2013 \u201cmilk is not just milk,\u201d M\u00e9nard says \u2013 fat is key to making cheese and the different cows produce different milks. He\u2018d like to add sheep\u2019s milk cheese to his repertoire but says it\u2019s harder to obtain.<\/p>\n

Le Blondeau young Gouda, Camembert-style Le Long-Sault, L’Explorateur blue and L’Affluent in Mamirolle style, with its bloomy rind, are a few of the dozen or so cheeses that you will find in the FTR cooler case.<\/p>\n

M\u00e9nard makes a trio of popular Cheddars \u2013 Le Portage No. 1 to Le Portage No. 3 \u2013 which have been aged from two months up to 10 months, some of which receive a tradition treatment, he says.<\/p>\n

\u201cCheddar that\u2019s been aged in cheesecloth is harder and almost more like a Parmesan because it loses so much humidity. It crumbles.\u201d<\/p>\n

The bacteria used produces different types of cheese, says M\u00e9nard stressing that a wheel\u2019s aging is critical to flavour and texture development.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s like wine. It starts with the ground, the terroir. We too start with the raw material on the ground which is what the cows eat.\u201d<\/p>\n

M\u00e9nard\u2019s L’Affluent has quickly become one of my FTR favourites: it has an ivory-coloured paste and an orangish rind and just a hint of \u201cbarnyard\u201d aroma \u2013 it\u2019s a cheese that oozes nicely when at room temperature, a step that M\u00e9nard stresses is important to serving fine cheese properly.<\/p>\n

\u201cCheese shouldn\u2019t be served cold. Take it out of the fridge for at least a minimum of 30 minutes before eating it. It will taste completely different,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

While the shelves at the FTR marketplace are currently stocked with fine local products and European goods that complement M\u00e9nard\u2019s cheese, he envisions growing the business and hopes to increase his cheese production in order to sell into other retailers and fine food stores.<\/p>\n

Like the business\u2019s name \u2013 an homage to the rapids that coursed along the Ottawa River where Precambrian Shield meets St. Lawrence Lowlands \u2013 Fromagerie des Trois Rapides is part of local culture in Franco-Ontario and French Canada, especially when it comes to cheese lovers.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe are ideally located between Ottawa and Montreal,\u201d says M\u00e9nard. \u201cI hope we can gradually start serving the health-food stores and grocery stores there, repeating what I did with Green Beaver. But for now, I want to really focus on making these organic artisanal cheeses.\u201d<\/p>\n

Food writer\u00a0Andrew<\/span>\u00a0Coppolino lives in Rockland. He is the author of \u201cFarm to Table\u201d and co-author of \u201cCooking with Shakespeare.\u201d Follow him on Instagram @andrew<\/span>coppolino.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I\u2019m browsing the displays of specialty foods at Fromagerie des Trois Rapides (FTR) on County Road 17 in Hawkesbury waiting for owner Alain M\u00e9nard to transit from his other business, The Green Beaver, a few minutes away. The well-established Green Beaver brand, which he started with his wife 23 years ago, sells personal care products […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":27,"featured_media":106049,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[39],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-106048","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-affaires"],"acf":[],"featured_media_global":[],"yoast_head":"\nAlain M\u00e9nard and his love for all things cheese - Le Reflet \/ The News<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"I\u2019m browsing the displays of specialty foods at Fromagerie des Trois Rapides (FTR) on County Road 17 in Hawkesbury waiting for owner Alain M\u00e9nard to transit from his other business, The Green Beaver, a few minutes away.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/refletnews.ca\/en\/affaires\/alain-menard-and-his-love-for-all-things-cheese\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Alain M\u00e9nard and his love for all things cheese - 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